Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Across the City

The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on

Eric Walker
Eric Walker

A physicist and gaming enthusiast passionate about making quantum concepts accessible to all through creative storytelling.